Microseason: Cotton Flowers Open

AUTUMN

HEAT BREAKS

COTTON FLOWERS OPEN

22 - 27 August

While cotton is a recent introduction to Japan, only seeing widespread cultivation and active use from the 1600s after its reintroduction into Japan, it is interesting to note that “Cotton Flowers Open” is a microseason that does not exist in the original Chinese calendar.

Cotton is said to have been “reintroduced” into Japan in the 1500s because there are stories that the Indians initially brought cotton seeds to Japan in the 900s, however cultivation of the seed failed at that time.

Until cotton became readily available in Japan, there were two main fibers: hemp and silk. The former could be found all across the Japanese countryside, accessible to everyone, and a vital part of Japan’s animistic culture. The latter however, was primarily only available to the wealthy. Come Winter, there were techniques to layer hemp by commoners to keep warm but the outcome pales in comparison to the power of silk. So when cotton cultivation proved successful in Japan and fibers became commonplace, there is no doubt that there was deep respect and appreciation for the cotton plant. Enough to make its way into the official calendar. Adjacent industries also benefited. The proliferation of fermented indigo dye runs in parallel to cotton cultivation as the dye takes very well to this fiber.

Unfortunately, once mechanical spinning was introduced from the late 1800s and locally-grown varietals of cotton proved unsuitable for these machines, domestic cotton cultivation fizzled as imported cotton took way. There are numerous socio-political decisions that have further ensured this decline. By the 1930s, raw cotton was the majority export from the United States to Japan, and Japan suddenly became the largest producer of the world’s cotton textiles.

Today, it is said that 0% of cotton woven or worn in Japan is cultivated domestically. Nearly all cotton is imported from China, India, and the United States. It is important to note that there is a minuscule amount (certainly not enough to reach 1% of the total) that is grown in Japan, as it was never made illegal like our precious hemp. However, in recent years, from the 1990s onwards, there are pockets of grassroots movements by small-scale farmers and weavers to revitalize cotton cultivation. Like many agricultural products, if Japan does not take real strides to revitalize this industry, then the country risks shortages, insufficient traceability, irresponsible consumption, lack of pricing control, and increased carbon footprint.

Photo credit: Tomohiro Ueno