Salmon, born in river waters, join the ocean along with snowmelt, where they grow into maturity in the vast sea. Four to six years on, they then return to the rivers of their birthplace to spawn. This return to the river where they were born is called hosen kaiki, or literally, return to Mother River. It is said that salmon are able to find their way, guided by the scent of the river where they were born.

As the bears begin to hibernate, so do we prepare for the end of the year. From the 13th December, preparations for the New Year get underway. First is deep cleaning, eliminating negative or unnecessary actions or thoughts we accumulated across the year, and dusting off the debris, literally and figuratively.

The seasonality of materials is key, no matter the sector of use. For most people, seasonality is experienced in food. In English, we use the term “seasonal ingredients”. In Japanese, “seasonal” is shun. Referring to all the organic food things in the mountains, rivers, and the sea, that are currently available in that terroir. However, the seasonality of ingredients follows a spectrum, moving across three sub-categories.

Tachibana are said to be one of the native citruses of Japan. Flourishing in the warmer areas of the country, from Shizuoka through Okinawa. However, they are now on the endangered species list, as cultivated, hybrid citrus varietals are favored for their size and sweetness.

When cold Northern winds begin to blow, fallen leaves dance along the earth’s floor. Engaging all of our five senses: seeing, feeling, hearing, touching, and evening smelling all at once. It’s a sign that clouds will be pushed away, making for sunnier skies ahead. In Japan, Winter is associated to blue skies.

During this time of year, the clouds play a strong role in the way sunlight and moonlight dance on the earth’s floor, and creates shadow. Shadow and light, together as a duo, are the most intangible of the primary heritage materials of Japan.

While Japan is an island country, it is without doubt that its culture has been influenced by the Silk Road that spanned the Eurasian continent for 1700 years. Suisen, or Daffodils, are an expressive specimen of this.

With these warmer-than-usual temperatures, it’s hard to believe that we have entered the microseason, Earth Begins to Freeze. But up in the mountains, the floor begins to freeze, just a bit, in the wee hours of the morning.

From Autumn through Spring, Tsubaki, or Camellia, blossoms are seen across much of the year. Today, it is said that there are approximately 2200 varietals in Japan alone. The Tsubaki plant has serviced the Japanese people for thousands of years as a vital material for living.

Beginning with the Northern most regions of the country, deciduous trees and shrubs begin to take on color this time of year. Like a fireworks show, the first leaves to foliage are modest. Mild in color. They are sprinkled across the mountainside.

A survey from 2022 reports that over the course of the year, October is when the Japanese people feel most content, peaceful, at ease. While I do not have data on this yet, I suspect some of this is in great thanks to the fact that the natural world provides the perfect conditions that nudge us to breathe deeper.

‘Tis the season of beans and there is no bean more prominent in Japanese living than daizu, soy beans. Daizu are of course used in cookery, the main ingredient behind tofu, our staple fermented condiments like soy sauce and miso, valuable dry pantry items, and many braised side dishes. But they are also used in the textile dying process, washi-making, and other folk crafts.

There are many species of mackerel celebrated as an integral part of food culture across Japan, but today I’d like to focus on Masaba, known as Pacific Mackerel or Chub Mackerel in English. Masaba has become a rarity in Japan, and most seafood sections of grocery stores now line their shelves with Atlantic Mackerel. Masaba is recognized as king, for both its nutritional profile and flavor.

Kiku, or Chrysanthemums, are central to traditional customs of the season. There are over 350 varietals in Japan. As the national flower, parks, temples, and shrines show off their Chrysanthemums this time of year.

This time of year is know for chestnut preparation of all sorts. And for us in Japan, the news is that this year’s harvest is abundant. In cookery, in addition to plating using seasonal chestnut leaves, there are sweet and savory applications of course. The bitter skin if sometimes intentionally left in tact to create a complex flavor profile when sweet braising.

Over Summer, the country’s rice supply becomes scarce as we enjoy the final bites of last year’s bounty and prepare for rice harvest season. Talk of shinmai, or new rice, is on everyone’s lips. Our kitchens await the freshest delivery from our favorite farmer. While sun-dried, shinmai is still rich with moisture and produces the most luscious glossy steamed rice. I suspect most Japanese people will say that there is no greater luxury than hot steamed shinmai right out of the pot.

Every year on the 1st October, Zuiki Festival is held at Kitanotenmangu Shrine in Kyoto. It’s a festival that has been celebrated annually for over 1000 years to express our great gratitude for our Autumn harvest.

We have entered the subseason Autumn Equinox, which means we are now situated precisely at the peak of Autumn. In Japan, Autumn is associated to sports, reading, gastronomy, and the arts. And the distinctive urokogumo or scale clouds, the type of altocumulus that take on a fish scale-like look.

During this microseason, Swallows depart Japan and begin heading South. Sometimes they travel as much as 300km per day. Their destination is usually Australia or South East Asia. So if you reside in these areas of the world, then the name of your microseason a few weeks from now may be “Swallows Return”.

Wagtail, part of the Sparrow family, are said to call in the season. It’s their song that signals that we are properly situated in Autumn.