Microseason: Bush Crickets at the Door

AUTUMN

COLD DEW

BUSH CRICKETS AT THE DOOR

18 - 22 October

There are many species of mackerel celebrated as an integral part of food culture across Japan, but today I’d like to focus on Masaba, known as Pacific Mackerel or Chub Mackerel in English. Masaba has become a rarity in Japan, and most seafood sections of grocery stores now line their shelves with Atlantic Mackerel. Masaba is recognized as king, for both its nutritional profile and flavor.

Today, we still enjoy Masaba roasted with salt for breakfast, braised in miso for lunch, and as sashimi for dinner. No matter how it is prepared, Masaba continues to be a staple of the Japanese table.

In generations past, long before airplanes and automobiles, the finest food things and artisanal crafts were transported to Kyoto - the old capital and the center of Japanese culture. From the early 1200s, Saba Kaido or Mackerel Road was the footpath that deliverymen would use to haul Mackerel from the Japan Sea, all the way to land-locked Kyoto. All 79.9km of mountainous terrain. Departing the port early morning and arriving into the city early morning the following day, it is said that this was a full 24 hour non-stop walk.

Like many needs, Saba Kaido birthed techniques and traditions. The first is salt preservation of fresh fish. Just the right amount of salt and layering technique was applied so that when Masaba was enjoyed the following evening, the salt content was to perfect taste. Other techniques include sun-drying fish, as well as fermenting fish using rice bran.

Photo credit: Momoko Nakamura