WORKWEAR
Case Study 02: Workwear
After countless interviews with generational professionals, and forging for historical writings and drawings of traditional Japanese workwear, we have arrived at this organic cotton haori jacket. A practical, functional use of materials and techniques rooted in ancestral tradition, that can be seamlessly incorporated into the everyday closet today.
The supple, kinari cotton weave is soft and luxurious yet breathes and feels lightweight upon wearing. It can be tied at the front to be worn both happi-style, as well as tied on the side to be worn samué-style. Happi-style for more everyday wear or when you’re presenting your works. Samué-style for when you’re attending to more detailed handicraft.
The design pattern is based on generational workwear found from historical documents as well as family heirlooms shared by craftspeople who are in traditional professionals. The mojiri sleeve is a modification of the kimono sleeve that professionals across a plethora of sectors made so that they are able to go about their daily tasks without interference.
Small alternations like additional leeway in the back and the sides, allow for greater ease of movement for modern bodies. Deep pockets on both sides are meant for tools, phones, and notebooks. The loop on the back means that you can stash it away quickly on a coat hook after your day’s work. And on the back there is also a semamori, to protect you from evil spirits and also to strengthen this area that wears quickly.
Kinari is the natural color of the cotton. We suggest you first wear it in this way. You’ll notice the areas that get worn or discolored. It is where your hard work appears in physical form. Then you’ll be able to enjoy it from a different perspective upon dyeing. It will take to all types of dyeing, including natural botanical or fermented dyes, as the sewing thread is also organic cotton.
Finally, we have also made a Sashiko Maintenance Kit for those of you who would like the tools and materials necessary to customize, repair, or reinforce your workwear haori. In our fieldwork, it has been called out time and time again, that maintaining workwear is as important as the workwear itself. Upcycling old kimono, patching together shabby textiles, sashiko stitched areas like elbows, knees, forearms, and neck lines increase durability.
Whether farmer, fisherman, or fermenter, many working-class professionals have historically worn cotton. Without a means or an interest to separate work and life, workwear is dailywear. It is history, family, functionality, and identity.
